Jewels of Kerala
Traditional Jewels of Kerala:
Hindu
The Avarnas

The Avarnas were prevented from wearing gold ornaments in ancient times. They used to wear Kallumala (bead necklace) and bangles made of brass and other cheap metals.


The Namboothiris

Jewel Box The Namboothiri men wore plain golden finger rings and elassu (golden amulet) attached to the waist string. Big ear pendants or KUNDALAM is worn by the vaidikan (Priest).
Ordinarily, male Namboothiris wore two plain rounded gold rings or one simple design ring ("Katta Vecha Mothiram") on the right ring finger. A sacred ring ("Pavithra Mothiram") was worn after either parent died. Those who did take a fancy to ornaments, wore a nine-stone (gem) ring and a Thulasi (basil) or Rudraaksham (Eloeocarpus ganitrus) chain linked with gold or silver. In some aristocratic families, a few wore a flattened triple gold string around the waist. These are, however, not universal.

The Namboothiri women wore hollow cylinders made of gold and hanging from the distended lobes like a necklace and called chutty-cheruthali. These- consisted of a number of gold coins through the eyes of which a silk cord was passed. Bangles made of gold where worn; ornaments in the nose or on the head, were also worn.

The Adyan Namboothiri

The Adyan Namboothiri used to wear Kuzhuthila and 'Karumalapattu'.The Adyam Namboothiri were distinguished by the peculiarities in their form of dressing. They wore silver bangles on the fingers while others wore only pewter or bell metal bangles. The women of Nayar, Ambalavasi and other Hindu castes used to wear THODA or THAKKA in their dilated earlobe. The TODA was a convex disc made of gold the front surface of which was either plain or set with rubies. NAGAPATAM or Serpent's hood was the oldest ornament of the Nayar women. It was called after the shape of a pendant worn around the neck. Nalupantiyantram, puthali, avilmala, Kantaaram, arimpumani, tandumotiram, pulinakham, patakkam, addiyal and pavithramothiram (Payyannur) come under neck ornaments.The Mookuthi was the popular nose ornament. The nattukappu was worn on wrists. The 'mothiram' (ring) was worn on the fingers. ANKLETS were called as PADASARAM or KOLLUSSU. Round the waist was worn the KACHAPPURAM, a chain or belt of gold or silver was worn by the children, around the waist. KETTUMINNU was worn by girls after Thalikettukalyanam (Thali-tying in marriage ceremony).

Antharjanams

Antharjanams wore combinations of five kinds of necklaces with centuries old designs, but worn only during marriages and other festivities. Kaasaali (Kaasu Thaali, coin necklace) - has either 13 or 15 engraved lockets, of which 10 depict "Dasaavathaarams" (the 10 incarnations of Vishnu), three representing Sreebhagavathy, Ganapathy and "Paradevatha" (family deity), and if 15, the remaining two for Indran and Indraani.

Poothaali
Kettarimbu
Kazhuthila

traditional jewels Mani, with three strands ("Izha") believed to be not just an ornament, but also having a sacred nature, and worn during the husband's "Aagrayanam" (Puthari Karmam).
Such ornaments were not owned by individuals, but were family property and were shared by all. It was also quite common to borrow from and lend to neighbouring Namboothiri families in times of need during festivities like marriages.
On ordinary days, Antharjanams wore only the "Cheruthaali". Cheruthaali was mainly of two types - Kamazhthi (convex outwards) Cheruthaali for Aadhhyans and Malathi (convex inwards) Cheruthaali for Aasyans. The 21-Desam women had an altogether different type [Click here for Irupathonnu (21) Desam]. Cheruthaali contains 15 lockets alternating with round "Manis". On the same string at the back will be four "Mookkolakkallu", a Rudraaksham and an "Ilanji" (Mimosops elengi) seed.
Aadhyans wore 15 brass bangles or bracelets on the right hand, and 14 on the left. Aasyans wore bronze bangles. Everyone used to wear "Chittu" (a wide ear ring) in the enlarged lobes of the ears.

Boys

Infant boys started wearing jewelry only from the "Choroonu" day (rice-feeding ceremony), and not earlier. If the first born was a boy, there used to be a function called "Valayideekkal" (wearing of bangle or bracelet) on the Choroonu day, when relatives, according to their capacity, put a bangle on the infant's hands.
Little boys wore a plain sand-filled gold ring tied around their neck with a white cotton thread ("Vellacharadu"), a gold or silver (based on financial capacity) flat 3-strand chain ("Moonnizha Nool") around the waist, and a gold or silver anklet - "Thala".
On special days, the plain neck ring was replaced by a "Puli Nakhha Mothiram" (tiger claw ring) with or without a blue or green gem-stone, a "Kingini" and "Elass" of gold or silver around the waist above the thread ("Nool"). Those who could afford, used a sand-filled Elass or Thala, which made a slight sound. Boys from rich families wore a plain ("Ozhukkan") bracelet as well as an intricately carved ("Roopam Kothi Vala") one, while those from poorer families wore only the plain one. After around age four, only Elass, but no Kingini nor Thala were worn.
Gold and other ornaments were not worn by Upanichunnis, except for a plain ring tied as a locket around the neck. Relatives attending the Samaavarthanam ceremony used to give rings to the boy.

Girls

Girls wore around the neck a gold ring (filled with sand) as locket, tied with a white thread and another gold ornament called "Mookkolakkallu" or "Kuttivecha Mothiram". Brass bangles were also worn. (When rubbed with "Ammippaal" - the whitish liquid one gets when a grinding stone is used with just water - they shone like gold!). Gold or silver "Aranjaan" around the waist and anklet (Thala) were worn.
Even the well-to-do wore only silver anklets, though gold ones were not uncommon for the special girl born after several boys! Instead of Thala, some girls wore "Paadasaram" (made of gold or silver).
After the ears were pierced ("Kaathu Kuthal"), the holes were slowly enlarged using "Marakkuradu" (special wooden round piece placed inside the hole), which was continued to be worn until marriage, when it was replaced by Chittu.
On important occasions, "Paalakkaa Mothiram" which was either plain with wax filling or with gem-stone of green, blue or flame red color, "Pappada Thaali" with green or red stone at the centre, and "Kuzhalan Mothiram" (tubular ring) were worn. Both Kuzhalan and Paalakka Mothirams have a "Thalla" ( meaning old woman!) locket in the middle, with 10 - 12 of the others on either side. Special girls might get to wear a gold Elass or Kingini. Older girls wore a thick gold/silver waist band, "Aranjaan". Pappada Thaali is a single piece locket with an ordinary thread for tying. Aadhhyans and Aasyans wore similar ornaments. The bangles girls wore were similar to those of Antharjanams.

Brides

Namboothiri brides even during marriage wore much less ornaments than those of other communities. As mentioned, the Marakkuradu in the earlobes were at that time replaced with Chittu. During the auspicious time (Muhoortham) of marriage, it was her father who tied the "Cheruthaali" - also called "Pozhuthaali" - around the bride's neck using an ordinary cotton thread. (In most other communities, the bridegroom tied the Thaali). Usually, another complete set of Cheruthaali was also worn at that time. Four silver rings were worn on every finger except the two middle fingers. There would also be a plain round gold ring on the right ring finger.

Widows

Widows wore no ornament except the ring. Some continued to wear the Chittu. They often wore a Thulasi Maala (chain made of basil beads) or a Rudraaksha Maala strung in gold or silver.

Kshathriya women

traditional jewels Kshathriya women used to wear two forms of ear rings KATHILA or MANIKATHILA and consisting of golden beads; PUTTUKATHILA shaped like a horseshoe in outline and consisting of two halves nailed together, with the outside presenting a view of closely set golden knobs of different sizes systematically arranged one of these two earrings, a waist ornament (aranjanam ) and anklets are the ornaments worn during the Thali-tying and Puberty or first menstruation ceremonies. There were two sets of ornaments, one for daily use and the other for special occasions. Tantran and Kuzhal were the popular neck ornaments worn by Ambalavasi women.

Ezhava women

In South Travancore, Ezhava women wore PAMPATAM (ear ornaments of Tamil Sudra women). In north Travancore the earring of Ezhava women was the 'ATTUKKAM SAMKHU CHAKKARAM' and 'ATTIMINNU' was the neck ornament. The men of the Nayar, Ambalavasi and some other -Hindu castes used to wear their earlobes and wore KADUKKAN.

Christian
Christian women

The traditional Christian women wore MEKKAMOTIRAM or Kunuk(heavy gilt gold ring) on the upper ear lobe. No ornaments for nose. Some Christians do not use ornaments. They wore a necklace called Ottezhapatakkom and rings of various kinds for fingers and anklets.

Nadar Christian

traditional jewels The traditional Nadar Christian ear ornaments are very different from other. The women wear necklaces and earrings of elaborate and considerable weight. The ear rings consist of Studs on the upper portion of the ear as on the earlobes. MUDICHI, PAMPATAM, THANDOTE and ARITHALAPPU are the ear ornaments. The traditional necklace is called the CHITTIRU.

A type of THODA, THAKKA made of wood, lead or brass in the dilated earlobe is worn by AVARNA women. They also used to wear OLACHUTTU (scroll of PANDANUS or coconut leaf) in the earlobe. A bead necklace, Kallumala was the usual ornament for the neck.

Muslims
Muslim women

Muslim women have innumerable varieties of ornaments for the different parts of the body. The ornaments for the ear are MEKKATH, PACHAKALLU, ALICATH and JIMIKKI. They wear a number of coiled gold or silver earrings called ALICATH.
To adorn their hair MUDIPOO and MUDICHAKRAM are used-Nettippattam is worn on the forehead. Different types of PATHAKKAM, ASHTIK OTTAPATHAKAM, PADIMALA, PAANGOA and CHAKRAKANNIMALA are worn. They also used a waist belt called ARAPPATTA (of gold or silver is worn) silver ankle chain are also popular among them.

Tribal Women

The tribal women in the hills used to wear ornaments made of palm leaves, wood and beads from wild plants to adorn themselves. The Paniya women wore rolled palm leaves in their dilated earlobes. The cholanaickam use neck chains of beads from wild plants and bangles were made of a kind of grass.

The unmarried Mullu Kurumba women wore metal ear studs and a nose-pin known as PATHA. The married women wore bangles on both forearms and metal rings on the upper arms-KATHILA were also worn in the ears after marriage and a chain known as ELACE was worn round the wrist.

Payyanur Pavithra Mothiram

pavithramothiram Payyanur Pavithra Mothiram is a uniquely crafted ring shaped like a knot and considered being a sacred ornament. Usually Payyanur Pavithram is being made of Gold and Silver. The Pavithram is to be worn on the right ring finger by the person performing Vedic Karmas. It is believed that this ring will bring luck and grace to anyone who wears it with the deep devotion. The three lines on the top of the ring represents the three vital "nadees"(nerves) of the human body, Ida, Pingala and Sushumna. The knot between these three nerves together can awake or arose the "Kundalini sakthi" (vital energy of the body) of the human body. It is believed that the Pavithram brings the "Trimoorthi Chaithanyam" ( the vigor or the effect due to the presence of the trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva).The person who wear Pavithram as well as the Goldsmith who makes it has to have to impose some sort of self control or discipline over themselves. They should be pure vegetarian and shouldn't take alcohol and should keep way from immoral activities. If wore by women, they have to remove the ring during the period of menstruation.
According to tradition, the Pavithram, before handed over to the customer, is taken to Payyanur Perumal Temple for special poojas and a part of the cost of the ring will be given to the temple as an offering. Payyanur Pavithram is being exhibited in many of the museums of India as well as abroad. It is relevant to mention the name of late C.V. Kunhambu, who ws an expert in the making of Payyanur Pavithram and was also a great freedom fighter.